One easy trek, known as Taman Alam Suranadi (or Suranadi Nature Park), is located about 30 km from Mataram and only around an hour’s drive from Senggigi. Taman Suranadi is a protected nature reserve set on 52 hectares and is a good way to discover the tropical flora and fauna found on Lombok.
The park was first established in October 1976 and in its heyday was a beautifully maintained section of natural forest, complete with sign-posted nature trails, plaques naming the species of trees, a pond for swimming and picnic areas. Over the years, like so many things in Indonesia, the park has fallen into disrepair and it is disappointing to see that the signs and plaques are rusted or have fallen off the trees, the trails are becoming overgrown, and the staff who linger on the bales at the entrance are more interested in playing cards and drinking tuak than taking care of this potentially great tourism resource.
All that aside, for those who love to get out in nature, to walk along shady forest trails and discover hidden plants and creatures, the park provides a lovely environment to wander for a few hours... and an easy day trip from Senggigi or the cities. Signs at the entry to the information center show maps of the trails available in the park and one of the guides will be happy to accompany you for a small donation (a good idea, as it is easy to get lost and the guides know where all the special places of interest are located).
One easy-to-follow trail leads to the right of the information center, past large trees, including a few towering Mahogany trees, to the special “Pohon Jodoh” – two large trees that have grown up intertwined, like lovers in a natural embrace. Nearby is a dam which used to be used for swimming, but need badly maintenance and the water is now dirty.
A relatively easy one hour (return) trek to see the “Pohon Besar”, or “Big Tree”. The trek goes through tropical rain forest vegetation with tall trees – some of the older ones towering 30 metres or more – mixed with shrubs and jungle vines. Further into the jungle, you pass a small stream and followed pretty trails overhung with shady trees and the occasional enormous Banyan, Beringin and Mahogany trees, said to be hundreds of years old. Other tree species in the park include Garun, Klokos Udang, Kemiri, Bajur, Terep, Kayu Suren, as well as many shrubs and native flowers.
The park is also home to many monkeys, including the gray monkey and black monkey, as well as water mongoose and giant squirrels, eagles, honey birds, monitor lizards and snakes. At last you arrive at the “Big Tree”, which in all honesty should be renamed the “Giant Tree”, because it has grown considerably since it was first named! Towering more than 30 meters, the girth was at least 4 meters around and festooned with thick aerial roots. This is a really impressive specimen and worth the walk through the jungle to see.
Apart from exploring the Suranadi Nature Park, there are many other attractions nearby. Within walking distance, just down the road, is Pura Suranadi (Suranadi Temple). This is a beautiful complex of temples founded in the early 16th century by Javanese priest, Dang Hyang Nirartha (also known as Bhatara Sakti Wawu) during his pilgrimage to this peaceful valley. The temple is currently being repainted and is in very good condition. Borrow a temple sash (and a sarong, if you are wearing shorts) and make a donation before entering. Also opposite the temple is the old Suranadi Hotel – one of the oldest hotels in Lombok. It was built in the 1930’s by L Frantzman, an employee of the Nederlands Indische Bank, as a semi-permanent home on the edge of the jungle. Across the road from the temple is a large area with a number of lesehan (small cafes) selling local food, as well as many stalls selling snacks such as Dodol – a popular sweet made from dried fruits, such as jackfruit, papaya and durian. The lesehan are very popular with locals and are usually crowded on the weekend. Make yourself comfortable on a mat on the floor and order Sate Bulayak (a type of satay famous in Lombok) for around Rp 15,000 a serve.
