If you have bad knees, poor mobility or don’t like exercise, Gunung Kawi is not for you — there are over 300 steps to negotiate. It is hot and tiring going down, even more so knowing the uphill return journey awaited, but every tourist on the way back up the steps encouraged those heading down. “It’s worth it.” “Be careful near the river, it’s slippery. Look, I bashed my toe!”
Passing the dramatic rice terraces, working farmers and smiling, chatty vendors selling souvenirs and drinks along the path, perhaps the most humbling sight was four Balinese women carrying baskets full of brick-son their heads, who were making the trek up to 10 times a day. With no vehicle access, everything has to be hand carried to the temple.
Once down the hill, the splashing water of the Pakerisan River and the chirping of birds provides the background sound and the huge ancient stone carvings in the rock face greet you on both sides of the valley. The carvings are thought to be late 11th century and the tombs of ancient royalty. There also some holes carved out of the rocky mounds leading into rooms that resemble some kind of ancient Hobbit town, but were possibly rooms for meditation or for visiting pilgrims. The sense of history is palpable; however, the actual history of the area is unclear. There are no guides at the site.
Gunung Kawi is about 35 km north of Denpasar, past Ubud, or about 2 km south of Tirta Empul temple and Tampak Siring Palace. The entrance fee is Rp 15,000 for adults and a sarong is required.